Friday, June 18, 2010

Shanghai EXPO - a Hongkonger's guide

If you are a HKer, relatively well traveled, totally afraid of queues and crowds, but still want to "experience the EXPO" (afterall its a 100-years dream for China - but yes, yet again, how many more of these dreams do we have...), then read on. This is the guide for you!

First question I hear the most from my frds is: is it worth it? My experience is that its not as bad as it looked on TV. Yes there are seas of people, visitors are not particularly well-behaved (but no worse than usual), and its already crazy hot/humid in Shanghai before the summer hits. But after spending 4 hours there, I still think EXPO makes for a fun outing. Many have counsel me not to go (esp the locals). I was also shocked, in my quick office survey, that most local Shanghainese have not been to the EXPO yet after almost 2 months. In fact, one of my colleagues even sold me her ticket, which she probably received from the government (which is great, save me trouble in queuing up!). But all that said, I found it fun.

You can do EXPO in half a day - assuming that you dont intend to go inside the pavilions, and are more interested about the buildings, and the overall experience, not what's inside. Chances are, again, if you are relatively well traveled, nothing inside will intrigue you much. I realised that the pavilions that I am really curious to go into are the Iran, N Korea pavilions, as example - countries that I havent been to. Once you relieve yourself of the thought of queuing up in the midst of Shanghai's summer, then you can really enjoy yourself in the EXPO park. And if there are no queues, then go in by all means - I went into the North Korea, Pacific, and Latvia Pavilions; and if you are lucky enough to go on a quieter day (or have more tolerance for queues), then you can do more than me.

Once you have decided to go, pack right. If you are coming in June, July, August, then wear shorts and sth that breathes. Its going to be >30C and humid (today is 32C). I am drenched wet in less than one hour. Take a EXPO taxi from a hotel (only these can get inside the park) and get off at Gate 7. Walk straight towards Thailand, Australia Pavilions, and turn left to see Denmark (the mermaid is visible from outside!), Finland, and Russia.

Continue on to see Argentina, Egypt, Angola, and South Africa at the end. Then u-turn and you will be in the European section. Italy Pavilion is popular but not much to see from outside. UK Pavilion looks great but tough to get a good shot - and there's a 4 hour queue today.

As you walk along, dont miss Spain and Holland - my 2 favorite structures. The architects from Miralles Tagliabue did an awesome job putting up wicker-basket panels on the outside of the Pavilion that make it immediately Spanish and Chinese at the same time. Dutch architect John Kormeling build houses that seem to float above what he calls the "happy street", creating a space for people to live and hang out in the simulated cramped environment. Before you leave the Europe section, look for the works from Yan Pei-Ming (great Chn artist living in France) on steel plates outside the France Pavilion.

March on and walk upstairs to the EXPO Axis to see the China Pavilion from afar - a gigantic structure that rises above all the rest (we Chinese know how to make a territorial statement!). This is a good spot to take pictures of yourself with the China Pavilion in the background. You will probably be exhausted at this point - this is not a bad place to chill for a while. Get a Vitamin Water from the Coke store (its RMB15). Watch another art piece prominently displaced - Julian Opie's LED displays - with China Pavilion in the background.

Once you are done resting, circle the huge structure (assuming you dont start queuing up at 8am to get the entry pass to get into the China Pavilion!) to arrive at the HK and Macau Pavilions. I dont know who thought of the rabbit theme for Macau - its one of the worst structures for sure. HK is - well - interesting. Its probably one of the smallest, and built like a luxury residential apartment - I guess that's what represents HK? I would love to go in, but the queue is not short. Obviously its totally symbolic that HK, Macau and China are next to one another - nothing like family. BTW, Taiwan is also a neighbor to the China Pavilion, but across the boulevard - symbolising the blood-bonded but not-quite-on-talking-terms Cross-Strait situation? What you cant miss but you shouldnt look for too long is a horrifying so-called sculpture outside the China Pavilion (I dont know who's choice is this... disastrous). Also, there's a small square that's one of those de-rigeur group photo spots, where in one shot you can capture a huge EXPO 2010 signage and the China Pavilion in the background.

Leave the Greater China plot to see Pakistan, Israel, and UAE (with its expensive-looking stone floors - clearly shows who's got money). Then onto Iran, N Korea (the evil axis countries altogether for some reason?!). You are at the end now. Walk towards Huangpu River direction to see the Japan and Korea Pavilions - the latter being another one of my favorites, modern design but also a proud display of its tradition, with panels showing Korean alphabets and colorful iconographies. Have to admit I do want to go into the Japan Pavilion, after I see the poster talking about the "Kawaii Peace" show inside displaying a mashup of Japenese anime, manga, pop music, fashion and culture - sounds really interesting!

I have all but used up my energy by this time, so I went to take the ferry to the Puxi side. You can look back from the ferry onto Pudong, and see the huge EXPO Culture Center and again the China Pavilion in the backdrop. Landing at L3 pier, you will pass the Oil Pavilion, the Coke Pavilion, etc., before you exit through Gate 2 - back to civilisation.

So I'd say, yes its worth it, and I almost want to say that perhaps I will go again at night just to see the structures in floodlights. Coming as a group will be fun too, but if you are bringing kids, make sure you tell them that they need to walk a lot and you dont ended up carrying them - the EXPO park is not a walkable stretch with kids in your arms, and there's no alternatives at all once you are inside - no taxis, not even shutter buses (they are far and between, and filled with people all the time). BTW on taking photos, I have all but given up to wait for the background to "clear" of passerbys - almost all of my shots have TONS of people in the background - consider that as part of the Shanghai EXPO special!

Have fun!

1 comment:

Miffy said...

I went at night and it's totally worth going as long as you just walking outside. My boss went to the Swedish Pavilion and said it just looked like Ikea show room..don't bother going in..