The two Mumbai's

Went to the infamous slum Dharavi (backdrop for the movie Slumdog Millionaire) in the middle of Mumbai, as part of a company field trip to see how the area thrives as a mini-economy. Dharavi is its own ecosystem with the most logic groupings - plastic recycling is next to the plastic processing is next to the processing equipment maker. We went on a sunny 24C day - but can totally imagine when its 40C, or raining, how the soft ground (essentially piles of trash) will become a germ breeding ground.

Everyone is busy inside. There's no one coming to ask for money (which I asked why - and the answer I got is "since everyone's busy, and has a role and a job in the slum"). There's no crime even though there are women walked with their gold and jewelry on - "no one dares to commit crimes, everyone knows everyone, and words of any wrong-doing will spread back to their own villages and they will live with shame - no one wants that". There are Chinese imports being sold everywhere, from washing machines to $50 handsets called Sunny Ericsson (still dont understand why there are not more Indian local champions?). Areas are grouped by people from different regions with different dialects. There are on-street "clubhouses" with local newspapers and videos on offer. For entertainment, about 70-90 people can cramp into a 600 sqft space to watch a short movie (again in their local dialect) for US 20 cents.

The government had wanted to take down the slum (since its an eye sore?); locals fiercely oppose since this is not just about having a space to live - this is a livelihood, its where they friends are, its how they make a living. They bribe local politicians to help fight off government's redevelopment advances - which helps complete the ecosystem of culture, economics and politics, in its weired way.

The other Mumbai is the posh area, where apartments sell for HK$10,000 per sqft or up, and the highest buildings are all new condos, and where there are ritzy hotels along the Back Bay.

Every city has their underbellies - HK has it too. Whats the right way to "tackle"? Does it need to be dealt with? How can people live with basic dignity? When is the right time for the State to intervene?