Despite all its fault, its understandable why the biennale is still held in Venice - the history, context, room for mixing of new/old is hard to find elsewhere. That said, the vaporetti strike, overcrowded exhibitions (apparently the largest turnout ever in VB's history), and extortional prices for hotel and food will indeed deter all but the keenest.
One'd need at least 2 days (very bare minimum) if not 3 or 4 to see a decent breath of what's on offer. Starting the morning in Giardini with the national pavilions is the natural choice, esp given the queues outside the UK, US, German Pavilions. Queue up at 930am, and race your way in at 10am sharp.
France's Boltanski is my favorite! An unusually 'optimistic' piece for him - been a fan since seeing his Teshima house in Setouchi. I know some find his works 'too obvious' but the themes of life/death, uncertainty/chance always resonate. UK's Mike Nelson Istanbul-inspired labyrinth is worth seeing (though I heard not as good as Coral Reef shown in Tate). US's Alloa & Calzadilla is a bit of a spectacle - but it's definitely much talked about! If one's been to German Pavilion's space before, Schlingensief's immersive 'church' setup (Golden Lion winner) will impress. I like both Austria's maze/intervened classic paintings by Schinwald, and the idea behind what Landau did for Israeli Pavilion (though not necessarily all on display). Have seen Yael Bartana's video in Seoul before - but its well worth staying 10minutes in the Polish Pavilion to get a flavor of her videos which played out her vision for the return of 3m Jews to Poland. There's huge line outside Japan Pavilion for Tabaimo - if I have to avoid one queue, I'd pick this one to skip. But dont miss Swiss' Hirschhorn elaborate crystal-motif modern wasteland work. A curator's favorite seem to be Denmark's "Speech Matters" - but I got a bit less out of it.
If you are in Giardini already, it'd make sense to go to Padilglione Centrale too in same day, it'd take about an hour to sample it. Dont miss the painting+installation by American RH Quatyman. Walking in, one cant miss Nathaniel Mellors' talking heads/videos, Omer Fast's video, and Norman Jeane's plasticine works all of which I like.
If all that hadnt taken you all day and you still have energy, then took one vaporetti stop to get to Arsenale. One'd walk by HK Pavilion - well, go in. Honestly, dont bother with Macau which is right next to it. Then (hopefully very quickly out of the HK space) head for the main hallways of Arsenale, you'd be greeted by Song Dong's Para-Pavilion, then see James Turrell, Rebecca Warren, Haroon Mirza (Silver Lion winner), Navid Nuur, Urs Fischer, Nick Hlobo, Christian Marclay (Golden Lion) and more. Stop by India and Saudi Pavilions along the way to see their first participation in VB.
Is it worth going to China Pavilion (its all the way inside the Arsenale)? Well...its better than last year. If you heard of the drama (chaos!) of how the show's put together...its even more amazing to see sth that seen almost coherent (though 'too West pleasing'?!) If you are too tired, get on the free shuttle outside the Arsenale halls to get to Italy/China Pavilions, save you maybe 7 minutes of walking (which will be welcomed if you're exhausted)
There are a few collateral events that are off the way - but I found those more interesting. You'd probably be in your day 3 here, and if you have even just half day, its worth going to Palazzo Fortuny which mix old and new so wonderfully (though last edition was better) by getting off San Samuele. Same stop, and esp if you have to choose between the two Pinault museums, do Palazzo Grassi and not Punta della Dogana (though the queue now at Dogana seems far shorter than prior year).
Coming off those 2, and if you like conceptual/performance art, check out 'Personal Structures' just 1min off the Rialto stop still along Line 1 vaporetti. You'd see works of Abramovic, Weiner, Lee UFan, Sasaki, etc. Along the same Line 1 (or 2?) a few stops off Rialto, you can see Ukraine billionaire Pinchuk's Future Generation Art Prize at the San Silverstro vaporetti, with participation from Cao Fei, Nick Hlobo, Wilfredo Prieto. Further on, I think a 'must see', is the new Fondaizone Prada at San Stae stop, which has your usual big names like Kapoor, Hirst, Neuman plus Fontana, etc., but also OMA's design for Fondaizone Prada's new Milan HQ slated for a 2013 open. If you have more time on hand, then venture to Fondazione Querini Sampalia which has a great Marisa Merz show on - paintings, sculpture interventions in background of Renaissance paintings.
If you live close to San Macro, loop back there and finish off with 'Future of a Promise' at the back of the Punta della Dogana, reportedly the largest pan-Arab show in VB ever (if you are here, you might as well do Pinault's Dogana too). Its def interesting to see what's being made in that part of the world esp given the recent political upheaval - but perhaps because of gallery sponsorships, the works all looked like they are ready to be sold off. While there, it'd be really tempting to go see 'Future Pass' (Asian artist show with Xu Bing, Zhang Xiaogang, Murakami, Nara, etc) which is just 1 min from Dogana, but you are likely to be disappointed/felt you went to an auction show. Check it out - if you have an extra 5mins. But if I have to choose again, I'd far more enjoyed my 30mins watching Singapore's Ho Tze Nyen's video - though, you'd really have to see it from beginning to end. At least the Singapore Pavilion is close to San Macro so you can do it on way to dinner there; and one can make his own comparison to Ming Wong last edition (both presented video works in representing Singapore).
An exhibition that's really off the island but sort of worth the trek (it felt far, but actually just one vaporetti stop from San Macro, called Zitelle) is Modernikon with young/established Russian arts, from Dmitri Gutov's fascinating 3D Rembrandt sculptures to Andrey Kuzkin's bread-men.
I didnt get a chance to get to Anish Kapoor - but its just one piece of work. I did stopped by Azerbaijian Pavilion, but the story is far more interesting than the works - that being, Salakhova's work of a Hajj/Mecca scared stone set inside a vagina shaped marble was removed/covered up last minute, with government official statement: "the work was damaged in transit".
As for food, there's only one delight in food choices - Osteria Da Carla 'Con Cucina' like 3mins off San Macro is a simple bistro with good seafood.
Enjoy VB!
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